Mayan Agriculture and Cuisine: More than Sustenance

So I know I am on a roll here, talking about Latin American history and cuisine, but to be honest I have been taking this archaeology class that has sparked my interest. I swear, after this, I am done with Mesoamerican food fare. (for awhile anyways) But for those still interested, here is my take on the history of ancient Mayan Cuisine (those of you looking for a hit on the Mayan doomsday prophecy, look elsewhere) I assume you guys have turned on your TV at some point, and know who the Mayans were, so I'll spare you the demographics :)

PS If it sounds a little bit on the research paper side, tough. I just liked what I came up with and want to share my joyous new found knowledge with others.



Chal, the Rain God

"Myriad threads intertwine in the tapestry of the Maya cultural tradition; their colors blend subtly to represent many themes. We cannot achieve a full understanding of the processes by which Maya civilization came into being by pulling out a few bright threads. True insight depends on the laborious unraveling of many historical strands." John S. Henderson wrote this in his book, The World of the Ancient Maya referring to the complexity of Mayan culture, which he compares to the intricateness of woven fabric, many threads weaving together to create a beautiful masterpiece. A massive and intriguing aspect of ancient Mayan life were the foods they ate and how they obtained them. The staple crop, Maize, or corn, was the symbol of life and much of their ideology circled around the ritual farming and harvesting every year. Corn farming was not a mere commercial activity for Mayan people but is a way of life based on a sacred and fulfilling tradition. Each year when new areas of the forest or jungle were charted out, cut, burned, fenced, and planted with corn and other crops, Mayan people revitalize their physical and spiritual unity. The Maize God was revered greatly in unison with Chak, the rain god. Chak is represented in the Maya glyphs in books, on sculpture, and in painted murals. His eyes, T-shaped, suggest tears and, symbolically, rain. Chak was a benevolent deity and considered to be man's friend. The Mayan farmer always evoked his name when planting. There were many festivals and rituals dedicated to the two.

            The history of Mayan agriculture and subsistence strategies are recorded mostly as archaeological evidence and remains, botanical and geographical observations, and sixteenth-century sources. There are little actual documents and codices written by the Classic Maya, because most of them were destroyed after Spanish conquest. Though, many indigenous Maya today still carry almost identical practices from those almost 1300 hundred years ago.

            The domestication of plants and agricultural practices in Mesoamerica dates back to almost 9000 years ago. All the important plant foods of Mesoamerica: maize, beans, squashes, chili peppers, and many others, were first domesticated in the basin of Mexico. These foods reached the Maya some times during the Archaic period. There is evidential remains of a small teosinte (a believed ancestor of maize) being grown near the margins of lake Petenxil 1,000 years before farmers were using pottery. We see the emergence of grinding tools that were used to process seeds and and other vegetable materials, as well as some reliance on maritime resources



Left: Teosinte, the believed ancestor of Maize

During the Early Preclassic Period, (1800BC-250AD), archaeologists start to see "numerous shell middens located in the mangrove-lined estuaries seem to represent seasonal occupation by somewhat mobile, non-farming groups that largely subsisted upon hunting and fishing...” (4) Maize cobs are also found, though analysis of human remains indicate that corn was not yet a staple in their diet. Some speculate that they might have been relying on manioc or cassava, a root crop. There are still studies being done on this. Around 1000 AD, evidence shows that many varieties of animals were hunted as game in the lowlands using traps and pellets used in blowguns. The Indians also ate domesticated native dogs and turkeys. Fish from the rivers and tributaries served as supplementary food and items of trade.

Maize God

Methods of agriculture for the Maya have not changed very much. They practiced an agricultural strategy commonly referred to as “slash and burn”, or “swidden agriculture”. The Mayans knocked down trees and brush with a stone ax or bat, and burned them during the dry season. The earth was turned with a hard digging stick, called axul. Land was communal property, and was worked by large groups of people. To plant Maize, a hole was made in the soil, 4 or 5 inches deep, and into it 3 to 6 kernels were dropped. After that, Chak willing, the Maya waited.

Maize, the gift of the gods, was sacred, and planting had to be done with the proper ritual. The rain god Chak was appeased and those days when rain should fall were selected for planting, in order that the newly planted seeds would sprout. For every detail of planting, sowing, and harvesting there was ritual, but most of it was just based on the common sense and observations of the farmers. These methods were then translated to priest scribes. Dr. Sylvanus Morley, after excavating at Copan, discovered two stone time markers. They were placed 4½ miles apart in such a position that the sun set directly in line with them on April 12 and September 7. From this it was deduced that April 12 was the date chosen for burning the brush in the fields around Copán.

Chayote

Besides Maize, there were many others foods that were domesticated and grown in the Mayan region. Beans and squash were often planted in the same hole with the maize or the rows between. There were numerous varieties of squash and pumpkin, and two varieties of beans, a red one and a black one. They cultivated manioc,jícama, sweet potatoes, chili peppers, and tomatoes . Some fruit crops of the central lowland areas were fruits such as the papaya, hog plums, nance plums, guavas and avocados. The sweet cassava, was consumed, as was chicham (from the Mexican word xicamatl), a turnip-shaped root. They had one green vegetable that was eaten frequently, the chayote, a vined fruit similar in taste to summer squash.

The fruit of the achiote tree, was a source of color similar to saffron, was also used in food, coloring their stews. The sapodilla, or "chewing gum tree" , the source of our modern gum, is a large tropical fruit tree. The Mayas boiled its sap to a sticky mass and used it in making blowguns and adhesive glue. Maya boys chewed it, calling the sticky substance cha.

Cacao Seeds

The Maya cultivated cacao seeds in forest gardens. Some Cacao mixtures included maize, chili, vanilla and honey. Honey from the Sting less bee named Xunan-Cab were raised in special hives made out of logs, gourds, clay pots, and other containers. Honey from these bees has lower sugar content than honey from the European honeybee, but is considered better tasting. The Maya so honored honey and honey wine or balche, they had festivals dedicated to the god of honey (AhMucan Cab). Chocolate was also mixed with a variety of flowers, and sometimes it was thickened with atole, a thin corn gruel, and even peanut butter.

Peccary

The Maya hunted in the grassy savannas that dot the Lowland jungle, using traps,spears and blowguns. The Maya was a considerate hunter, killing only what he needed. In addition to deer, the ancient Maya hunted birds; wild turkeys, rabbits, armadillos and peccaries. The "peccary (is an) American animal which look something like a small wild pig, and are sometimes so called, but which belong to a different family, Tayassuidae. This family is the New World counterpart of the pig family in the Old World…” (3) Other sources of protein were fish, turtles, iguanas, and insects. A variety of snares were shown in the Madrid Codex, highlighting an armadillo trap.

Ethnohistoric and archaeological evidence indicates that the production and distribution of food was an important source of power for ancient Mayan women. Women of elite status handled the way food was used in rituals, but isotopic analyses reveals that they ate fewer ideologically valued foods than their male companions. Both non-elite males and females feasted on the same foods. This seemed to disappear after Spanish conquest but males continued to have more carnivorous and elaborate diets. Evidence also suggests class distinction when it came to who ate what. The peasant cuisine was largely confined to such simple foods as to stews compounded from meat and vegetables, to which were added squash seeds and peppers. The Mayan ruling class were mostly the only ones to have enjoyed the chocolate drink made from the cacao beans. Though, every Mayan household had its own kitchen garden in which vegetables and fruit trees were raised, and fruit groves were scattered near settlements as well.

With the abundance of foods that were available in the variety of regions in the Mayan highlands and lowlands, it is of no surprise that their composed cuisine was everything but bland and simple. We see eloquence and sophistication in their ancient recipes, going beyond the basic assemblage of ingredients, into developed tastes and textures.

Metate

Maize was prepared by boiling or soaking it in lime water and then draining it in a gourd colander. While it was still wet, it was ground on a metate (a grinding stone) with a mano, a cylindrical hand-stone. The resulting paste was most commonly mixed with water to make atole or formed into cakes, the still familiar tortillas, which were roasted on a flat pottery griddle and eaten with beans or chilies. On special occasions chocolate was mixed with ground maize and spiced with achiote, chilies. Honey was used as an additive to chocolate drinks and other dishes, but it is not know if it was used as a confectionery or as a preservative. Honey was also added to fruit compotes, made with local fruits such a guavas, grapes, and cherries, all native to the region but look very different than what is sold in modern local markets. An ancient herb, epazote, is native to the regions of Central and South America, as well as southern Mexico. Epazote was used as a medicinal herb as well as a flavoring to soups, stews, and beans. The pungent taste is difficult to describe, but has been compared to anise, fennel, or even tarragon, but stronger.

Epazote

Masa harina, or a dough formed from mixing ground maize and warm water and meat was filled with a variety of meats and beans then wrapped in corn husks or leaves. That was then boiled to make the Tamale. The process of making and serving the Tamale was a ritual of importance. Turkey meat tamales were traditionally prepared during the festival of Hanal Pixan, which has since become Day of the Dead in the Maya area. The symbolism of "burying" the tamale in a pit and then "resurrecting" it corresponds with the ancient Maya idea of burying the dead before their transition into the afterlife.

Iguana meat was appreciated and the bones of that animal from at least one archaeological site are darkened, suggesting that it was roasted, possible on a a barbacoa. There is evidence of numerous other animals such as armadillo, tapir, monkey, and the manatee were eaten as well. Venison was enjoyed roasted, where a pit was dug and the meat was left there to roast under coals and leaves after it was salted. Fish and seafood were consumed in great quantities in coastal areas, and there is also evidence of consumption of small freshwater fish.

Mayan cuisine today has preserved much of its integrity while welcoming the addition of Old World additives such as onions, garlic and spices. But the cultural and ideological ties to foods have remained the same. Just to name an example, Maize symbolism is a strong part of Mayan thinking today. Young children are referred to as corn kernels and, just as some kernels are short, or turn out bad, so is it with children. Eating corn in the form of tortillas is done with particular relish, so that every meal becomes a reaffirmation of a very sacred attitude toward this food.

Awesome! Ready for the recipes? (Note: fire pit lined with banana leaves or ritual rain dance recommended but not required)

Honey-Vanilla Fruit Compote Recipe by Shanti Morell-Hart

1 ½ cups honey
3 ½ cups water
1 vanilla bean, split or 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 ripe medium pineapple, peeled, cored, and diced
10-12 small, ripe, but firm, fresh guavas
½ pound fresh cherries
grapes, halved

In a three-quart saucepan, combine the honey and water. Place pan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Stir until the honey is dissolved, making a thin syrup. Place the vanilla bean in the syrup and reduce heat to low.
Bring another large saucepan of water to a boil. Plunge the guavas into boiling water for a few seconds, then remove and peel. Add the guavas and cherries to the simmering syrup and poach for 15 minutes, stirring gently from time to time. Add the pineapple and continue to poach for another 5 minutes. Turn off heat, and allow the fruit to cool in the syrup.
Remove the vanilla bean, rinse, dry and store. Serve the compote chilled, or at room temperature. Garnish with sliced grapes.

New Corn-Stuffed Tamales

Recipe adapted from one in the Diario Yucatan, the Merida Yucatan Newspaper

1 1/2 cups roasted corn kernels (from 2-4 ears of corn)
1/2 cup water
1 cup masa harina
¼ cup palm oil or turkey fat
1/2 tsp salt
Corn leaves

Roast the fresh corn ears in their husks at 400 degrees for 5 minutes. Husks and silk will peel off easily. Scrape off the kernels, standing the cob in a large frying pan to catch them. Depending on the ears, it will take 2-4 ears to make 1 1/2 cups of kernels.
Simmer water and corn for about 10 minutes. Strain the corn and reserve the water. Puree 1/2 cup of the kernels with this water, reserving the rest for putting in the tamale dough. Add the puree to the masa harina, and mix vigorously. In a separate large bowl, whip the salt together with the oil or fat. Start adding the masa mixture to the oil mixture, about 1/4 cup at a time, whisking and beating vigorously after each dough addition. Continue to beat the mix for 15 minutes. Stir in the remaining corn kernels, to form a dough.
Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces (about 3 Tbsp each.) Pat each piece into a rectangle on a trimmed corn husk to form a square or rectangle, leaving a border at the edges of the tamale at least 1 inch. Now fold up the rectangle along the length of the corn husk and pinch it into a roll, loosely. Roll the husk completely around the dough, and tie the ends with strips of corn husk. The wrapping should be slightly loose, to allow steam to get in. Place the wrapped tamales seam-side down on the rack of any kind of steamer. Tamales shouldn't touch the boiling water. Steam for 30 minutes. Let cool slightly and serve with tomato sauce or turkey broth.

Pumpkin Soup

Recipe by Shanti Morell-Hart

1 small pumpkin, about 12"
2 tbs palm oil
3 tbs honey
1/2 tsp ground allspice
4 c turkey broth
Salt to taste
Thinly sliced onions
Roasted pumpkin seeds, for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place pumpkin in a baking dish and roast until easily pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. Allow pumpkin to cool, slice off top and scoop out seeds. Clean pumpkin fibers from seeds and discard. Toss seeds with oil and salt to taste. Spread out on a baking sheet and return to oven 15-20 minutes, until crisp and golden. Reserve for garnish.
Scrape the pumpkin flesh from shell and mash, or puree if a smoother mixture is desired. Place the pumpkin in a large saucepan and season with salt, honey and allspice. Gradually stir in enough broth to make soup with thin or thick consistency, as desired. Simmer over medium heat about 5 minutes, until hot. If desired, serve soup in small pumpkin or squash shells. Garnish with onions and pumpkin seeds.

Keh Chuuc
(Pit roasted venison)

Recipe adapted from one by Claudio Cupul Chi, resident of the Yucatan

Fresh venison

Salt

Early in the morning, dig a deep pit, put rocks in the bottom and build a roaring fire on top. When the fire burns down, put down green branches. Season the venison with salt, then wrap in leaves to keep it clean. Cover with more green branches and cover with earth. Let it cook for an entire day. Dig up and serve.

Xni Pec
(Tomato and chile salsa)

Recipe adapted from one in the Diario Yucatan, the Merida Yucatan newspaper
8-10 tomatoes, chopped
2 habanero chiles, chopped
Salt, to taste

Mix all ingredients together. Serve with tortillas or tamales.

Pibikutz
(Turkey tamale)

Recipe adapted from one in the Diario Yucatan, the Merida Yucatan newspaper

4 C turkey broth
6 2/3 C corn masa harina
1/3 C solid turkey fat
6 2/3 C shredded cooked turkey
1 tsp. achiote
Salt, to taste
1 cup tomato
2 sprigs of epazote (parsley is a close substitute)
(optional) habanero Chile, to taste
corn husks 

Boil the broth with ½ tsp achiote, a dash of salt, and a little bit of the masa harina for thickening. This will be part of the "kol" that bathes the interior of the tamales.
Mix the corn masa with the turkey fat, salt, and achiote to make a dough. This forms the filling that will cover the shredded turkey meat. Put some of this corn dough on top of a corn husk. Make a hollow in the dough. Layer this hollow with the turkey and bathe with the broth, alternating with onion, tomato, chile, and epazote. Finally, put a covering of corn dough on top.
Wrap everything with corn husks, and then bake for an hour and a half at 375 degrees. Or, for the traditional method, bury the pibikutz in a firewood and rock pit, and let cook for 8 hours.

Ancient Burritos - Black Beans in Tortilla Wrappers
Black beans:
- 1 tbsp palm oil or turkey fat
- 2 finely chopped habanero chilis (without seeds)
- 2 tsp cayenne pepper powder
- 1 sprig epazote (can be excluded)
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 cup dried black beans
- 2 cups water
Corn Tortillas:
(15 tortillas)
- 500 ml masa harina (treated corn flour)
- 300 - 400 ml warm water

Garnish:
- small diced tasty tomatoes

Heat oil in a pressure cooker, add chili, bell pepper, allspice, cayenne pepper, epazote and salt and stir fry for 30 seconds. Add beans and fry them for a couple of minutes while stirring. Add water and put the lid on the pressure cooker and put on high temparature. When pressure cooker starts to hiss loudly time it for 20 minutes. Let cool off for at least 15 minutes before you open lid, otherwise you can burn yourself! While waiting for it to cool off make the tortillas. Mix corn flour with water until you have a soft smooth dough, cover with damp cloth. Now place a flattened golfball sized piece of dough in a tortilla press prepared with waxed paper. Put wax paper on top and press. In a non stick frying pan place the tortilla, removing the paper carefully with wet hands. Fry for one minute on each side on high heat until it starts to catch colour. Keep under dampened cloth and repeat procedure. Make a wrapper with black beans and tomatoes inside. Delicious!

Modern Mexican Chocolate Drink

So there you have it folks, appetizing dishes that you can make and brag to your friends that you can decipher ancient Mayan hieroglyphic codices... Well, if not, be sure to check out Fiery Pool: The Mayan and the Mythic Sea at the Saint Louis Art Museum, where you can check out an ancient chocolate frothing pot, venison tamale platters, and sculptures of Chak, the rain deity, and the all powerful Maize God himself. J

For more information on Mayan foods check out:
Michael D. Coe